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Previous Tonga
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Capital: Suva
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I found Fiji to be markedly different from the three other South Pacific islands I had just visited. The original inhabitants were a blend of Melanesians from the west and of lighter skinned Polynesians from the east. These two strains blended relatively well for their respective cultures were both based on communal rather than individual values. The arrival of Europeans in the early 19th century and their massive use of indentured indians as cheap labour has completely modified the ethnic and political structure of the country. The present situation is most complex. The easy going Fijians still own most of the land communally and lease for extremely low rates to poor indian farmers. The hard working prolific indians have become 45% of the population and their prosperous elite control the overall economy. As far as I could ascertain, the two communities do not mix and view each other with secret contempt behind an appearence of truce. |
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| Lonely Planet CIA | ||
From Tonga, I flew in to Suva on the main island Viti Levu and made my way by bus along its beautiful south coast, kown as the Coral Coast, all the way to Nandi on the north coast. The Coral coast is dotted with a number of fine resorts competing with the luxurious island spreads offshore Nandi. There are exceptions but most of the tourist industry is in the hands of the indian business elite.
Fiji caters to all classes of tourists from the shoestring backpackers like me to the most demanding and free-wheeling millionaires. Budget accommodations and small dive shops such as "Inner Space" are available next door to the biggest luxury resorts.
This trip was an eye opener for me as I discovered the pleasures of scuba diving thanks to the Inner Space drive shop. I'm not much of a sportsman but I just loved diving right away because of the mild apprehension I felt and the great beauty of Fiji's reefs. This photo was taken while heading 20 km out to sea to dive on the reefs off Magic Island north west of Nandi.
The friendly atmosphere of a small dive shop leaves the big operators out in the cold. Great memories are made of moments like this.
With the owner of Inner Space, Frank Wright, his lovely young wife Anna, their two children and my dive instructor Billy (standing behind with the cap). Leaving Nandi, I moved further west along the north shore past Lautoka and cane fields farmed mostly by indians up an affordable island resort on Nananu-i-ra where I spent Christmas before completing my island tour and returning to Suva.
Back in Suva I went sailing with friends I had met in Tonga and spent some time with them trying to understand the delicate balance of forces in Fiji. I read in a newspaper that lease rates will probably be considerably increased in 1997 and that the sugar price privilege that Fiji enjoys for its exports to the US might be eliminated in that same year.
Should that occur, the poor indian farmers will be badly squeezed and the Fijian minority will have its hands full to maintain the political control that the indian majority has allowed them so far. Nubukalu Creek, the lovely spot in the center of Suva shown in the previous photo and Renwick Road might then not be as peaceful as they are here on a Sunday morning.
You have guessed it, this shot of Rodwell Road was also taken on Sunday morning just before leaving Fiji for New Zealand. On week days Suva's center is teeming with people and honking cars, busses and trucks!
