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VIETNAM   (3) alt

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Hanoi

The Ngoc Son (Jade Mountain), Temple on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake in the centre of old Hanoi and the red The Huc bridge that leads to it are the most photographed landmarks of the city.


 

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Hanoi

Here is another view of the red bridge that naturally is one of the most popular lovers rendezvous in town.


 

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Hanoi

In Hanoi, I stayed upstairs of the crowded Darling Cafe near the Dong Xuan Market, an excellent place to exchange travel tips and good addresses with other backpackers . The fellow turning around is Dominique de Polignac, a French student with whom I went to Sapa and Halong Bay a few days later.


 

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Hanoi

Busy Hang Bo street not far from the Darling Cafe.


 

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Hanoi

This is Hanoi's Municipal Theatre southeast of Hoan Kiem Lake.


 

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Hanoi

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum stands on Hung Vuong street, west of the Hoan Kiem district.


 

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Hanoi

And this is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, of special importance for me because of the unforgettable lady that I met who worked there.


 

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Countryside

One day, Dominique and I decided to visit the village of Sapa near the 3143 metre Fansipan mountain on the Chinese border (Vietnam's highest). This was the green countryside on the way to the mountains.


 

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Sapa

Sapa was built by the French in 1922 as a hill station, a place to get away from the heat of Hanoi in the Summer.

Now it is a market centre for the Hmong and Yao tribes that live in the neighbouring mountains.


 

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Sapa

The cool summer temperatures at the altitude of about 1600 metres is what attracted the French in colonial times. Now, it is the curious customs of the hill people that draws the tourists.


 

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Sapa

These steps lead down to the market area where all the action is on Saturdays.


 

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Sapa

The Hmong do their trading mostly during the day and leave in the late afternoon when the Yao start coming.


 

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Sapa

The Hmong hill people are small in stature and easily recognised by their traditional blue clothes. They number about 7 000 000 in total. About 6 million live in the Chinese province Guizhou, 900 000 live in Yunnan and some are dispersed in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. Several thousand have immigrated to the US after the Vietnam War.


 

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Sapa

Pork is the favourite meat of the Hmong and Yao.


 

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Sapa

The Yao hill people come to do their business when the Hmong start to leave. They are somewhat taller and their features differ from those of the Hmong. The women are often bald. They both speak Sino-Tibetan languages but they do not mix.


 

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Sapa

Yao women enjoy considerable sexual freedom and the Saturday night market in Sapa is the preferred venue for mating games.


 

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Sapa

The women take the initiative and it is the men's role to play coy.


 

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Sapa

Finally, couples pair off as everywhere else in the world but here, it looks more candid, natural and obvious than in most other places.

I wonder how these charming customs will survive being exposed to the crude curiosity of their foreign visitors once tourism takes off in this country?

On Sunday, our curiosity satisfied, we all went back to Hanoi.


 

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