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Capital: New Delhi
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I have been fascinated by India since my first visit in 1973 so I did not hesitate when the opportunity for a fourth visit arose in the fall of 1990. The context was still the same, to see if the intentions of the government of India to liberalise its economy would lead to concrete realisations for Canadians. This time I travelled on behalf of a Montreal firm that had developed a new co-generation technology that could advantageously use natural gas from the Mumbai offshore fields. |
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The Portuguese called this port Bom Bahia (good bay). The British pronounced it Bombay, they gave it the title of "Gate of India" and built this monument to illustrate that title.
Actually, Mumbai had shared the role of gate to India with Surat further north for centuries before the arrival of Europeans when Arab dhows like this one controlled the trade lines to Persia and Egypt where caravans connected to the Mediterranean.
Here I am exchanging views with a Hindu and a Sikh. The Sikhs represent only 2 % of the population but they play a much more important role in the economy than their numbers would warrant because of their excellent reputation for reliability and fair dealing.
Sikhism was founded by Guru Nanak in the 15th century as a reaction to the excessive power wielded by the Brahmins through the caste system. The Sikhs, who refused to recognise castes and who borrowed monotheism from Islam had to develop strong community ethics and a military tradition to survive persecution.
Here I am pondering over the subtle difficulties of doing business in India on the edge of the pool in the fashionable Hotel Oberoi.
All things considered, there is no way to do without a local "business agent" whose "connections in the right places" are required to open doors and obtain permits. This might seem shocking to a Canadian used to doing business in the US and Europe but when you think of it, the role of the "business agent" is very similar to that of the "registered lobbyist" whose function is to funnel millions to politicians to shape legislation the way big business wants it.
Outside of the Oberoi and of business meetings, one is assailed by the massive reality of the fractured Indian society. Here, a prosperous looking Indian eats cashews as he walks by a juice vendor.
It is not obvious at first sight but these two are worlds apart for they belong to different castes.
Those who occupy the lower rungs have the magical property of being quite invisible to the privileged upper echelons.
I'll say that again. I, as a foreigner, have the magical ability to see this mother and child that are completely invisible to the top 10% of the population of this country.
