Mount Robson in '55

The Robson camp

This year, the Alpine Club of Canada was managing the logistics of a base camp at the foot of Mount Robson from which teams could climb a number of great mountains in this distant region.

Here is Mount Robson, 16 miles away from the Hargreave's ranch.

I left alone and did about 6 miles the first day before camping by the river. I walked the rest of the way on the next day and caught up with a couple of Alpine Club members.

Left, about half way there and right: Robson's southwest face.

The Robson camp

We got caught in pouring rain. there was no shelter so we got so thoroughly wet that we had to wring out our clothes when the sun came out for a moment.

The Robson camp

"Berg" Lake and one of Robson's small glaciers. The big Robson Glacier is further north.

The Robson camp

Finally we reached The Canadian Alpine Club's base camp.

The Robson camp

It was great to meet members from all over Canada. Everyone was in a good mood and we enjoyed a fireside song feat for a short while until it started to rain again.

We practiced ice climbing with crampons in the seracs of Robson Glacier but then it rained so hard that we had to stay in our tents for a whole day.

Finally three ropes of six left for Gendarme Mountain even though the weather was bad. On the left, we are approaching Alice Pass (8 300 feet). Right, in the gap of Alice Pass.

Mt. Gendarme

Now the clouds closed in and we could not see where we were going on the way down to the Mural Glacier below.

Mt. Gendarme

Crossing Mural Glacier with Mount Mumm behind which we could not see most of the time because of the clouds. Our leader had to guide us by compass at times when the visibility was nil.

Mt. Gendarme

Finally the clouds cleared enough for us to see Mount Gendarme where we were going.

Mt. Gendarme

It started to rain sleet as we were going up.

Mt. Gendarme

We were all wet and frozen stiff by the time we reached the top. There was no view to enjoy so we started on our way back after a short rest.

Mt. Gendarme

I was lucky to have brought a ruberised rain coat but I was also frozen. More importantly, I was frustrated not to be able to see the sharp 3000 foot drop just behind me on the west side of Mt. Gendarme.

Mt. Gendarme

Back through Alice Pass behind us.

Mt. Gendarme

Further down it was not as cold as we were protected from the wind.

The Robson camp

Now we could see Berg Lake and the base of Mt Robson but the summit was hidden in the clouds.

The Robson camp

Looking at Mt Robson, I was looking forward to participating in the support teams that would carry supplies to the two bivouacs that the assault team would use in the following week.

Unfortunately about an hour later I slipped on a mossy rock and tumbled down a slope hard enough to tear a ligament in my knee as we had almost reached Berg Lake.

The Robson camp

I managed to walk to base camp but by the time I got there my knee was badly swollen and I realised my climbing was over for the time being.

The Robson camp

There was no way I could walk the 16 miles to the Hargreave's ranch so I rode out on one of their sure footed mountain ponies.

The Robson camp

I was sorely dissapointed to get only one very wet climb out of this year's Alpine Club's outing but the girls at the ranch compensated a little by being especially nice to me. That was 45 years ago but I still remember...