Capital: Sofia
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Ancient Thrace covered Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia, Macedonia, northern Greece and northwest Turkey. The Thracian tribes had no alphabet so we know them through others. We find some allied with the Trojans in 13th century BC and others allied with Athens during the Peloponnesian war around 500 BC. Later, they became part of the kingdom of Philip and his illustrious son Alexander but they were conquered in 46 BC by the Romans who divided their territory into Moecia in the north and Thrace south of the Balkan mountains. Thrace prospered for several centuries under the Romans until the great migrations of "barbarians" from the east gradually extinguished the resplendent Thraco-Roman civilisation between the 3rd and 5th centuries BC. Slavic tribes from the area between the Carpathians and the Baltic then flooded into the Balkan peninsula where they soon outnumbered the original Thracians. Further east, great migrations were moving over central Asia towards Europe. Amongst them were fierce Bulgar tribes of Turco-Altaïc culture which Byzantium used as mercenaries to repel Germanic Ostrogoth incursions in the late 5th century. Beginning around 500 AD however, the Bulgars living north of the Black Sea, the Caucasus and the Caspian raided and plundered Thrace at will after routing the Byzantine armies sent to stop them. In 632, Khan Kubrat, who had lived in Constantinople, managed to unite all the Bulgars in a confederation of tribes independent of the Turkut Khanate that had previously ruled them. When their neighbours from north of the Caspian, the Khazars invaded their lands and dispersed them around 665 AD, Kubrat's third son Asparukh led some of the remaining tribes across the Danube where their military prowess against Byzantium led them to become the aristocracy of the previously established Slav population. In 681, they established the first Bulgarian state at Pliska in the Dobrudzha area from which they expanded at the expense of Byzantium as far as to include Macedonia. In 865 Tsar Boris I converted to Christianity and imposed it on his people. The first Bulgar Empire reached its zenith under Tzar Simeon in the 10th century, but the Byzantines overran it and the capital was moved from Veliki Preslav in eastern Bulgaria to Ohrid, now in Macedonia, where Tzar Samuel built a great fortress from which he reigned over a reduced Bulgaria. Two centuries later the Bulgars rebelled against the Byzantines and established a second Bulgarian Empire that reached its zenith under Tzar Ivan Asen II in the 13th century. Bulgaria had twice been the most powerful state in eastern Europe but it was overrun by the Ottoman Turks in the 14th century whose domination was complete for five centuries. Many Orthodox churches were closed and mosques were built but the Bulgarians maintained their national identity until they were liberated by the Russian-Turkish war of 1877. With the fall of the Ottomans came the power struggles that were to plague the Balkans for decades. The most important was the second Balkan war of 1913 in which Greece and Serbia defeated Bulgaria and shared Macedonia. Bulgaria was pressured into joining the Axis in WW II at the end of which it was invaded by the Soviet Union. The communist party took over in 1946 and held power until 1989 when it changed its name to the Bulgarian Socialist Party (BSP) |
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Burgas was a long 8 hour ride from Istanbul, including the border crossing formalities so it was already six pm when the bus dropped me here next to the train station.
The tourist information offices were closed so I had to rely on a taxi driver to find this hotel where I paid 11 $US for a room with bath and air con.
Burgas has a nice Opera and Ballet theatre but there is not much to see or do in this busy port town in winter when the Black Sea resorts around nearby Sozopol, Nesebar and Slanchev Bryag are closed.
I took a couple of pictures and got on a bus headed for Varna further north on the coast.
The bus from Burgas dropped me off near the great Orthodox Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin not far from the centre of Varna.
The Clock Tower and the Storya Bachvarof Theatre shown here are located across the Mitripolitska Simeon Square from the Cathedral.
The red brick Varna Opera House is a little further south on Nezavisimost Square.
Varna's modern City Hall is also on Nezavisimost Square.
The Knyaz Boris I pedestrian mall extends from the square eastward over several blocks.
The Musala Hotel where I had planned to stay was being restored but I found a private room in this house for only 5.50 $US through an agency in the train station.
I mention these low prices because many of my friends tell me that they would love to travel like me but they don't do it because they think it must be too expensive. I do like to make the point that travel can be easy and affordable.
My room was in a quiet residential neighbourhood where this corner restaurant and bar provided all the action one might wish for.
Also close by was the open air market where one can find everything from soup to nuts. It had something of the atmosphere found in the souks and bazaars of the Middle East but it was impeccably clean.
Here men chew the fat and loiter around a public fountain just as they would in Istanbul or Damascus.
Varna's fine white sand beach was deserted for it was still too cold to don bikinis in early April.
Knowing the Cyrillic alphabet really helps to travel in Slav countries. BAPHA does read as Varna!
I rather liked Varna, I found it more friendly and sophisticated than down to earth Burgas. I'm sure it must be a fun place when its hot in summer!
From Varna I took a train to Ruse where I changed to another headed for Bucharest. The Bulgarian village you see here was in the countryside, somewhere between Varna and Ruse.
I had a couple of hours to wait for the train crossing the Danube over the long Friendship bridge to Giurgiu in Romania on its way to Bucharest. Not quite enough to visit Ruse's famous Svoboda Square without rushing, so I stayed around the station to chat with the locals.